Bar

The story of the Swan River Old Fashioned

Our most-ordered drink started as a staff-meal experiment nobody was supposed to sell. How a joke recipe became the signature pour of the room.

Ines Moreau Three months ago 5 min read
The Swan River Old Fashioned

The drink was never supposed to exist. Two years ago the bar team was roasting wattleseed for a dessert and someone wondered what it would do in an old fashioned. The staff-meal version was terrible. The seventeenth version is now the most ordered pour in the building.

What changed was the syrup. Raw wattleseed tastes like wet coffee grounds; roasted properly and steeped in demerara it turns into something between hazelnut and espresso, which is what lets it sit beside rye instead of fighting it.

The rest is theatre. Applewood smoke under a glass cloche, a single hand-cut rock, and the dome lifted at the table so the aroma lands before the first sip does.

Good signature drinks aren't invented. They're found, then adjusted until the room can't order anything else.

Ines Moreau, Head Pastry Chef

What else the lab is working on

The quandong sour uses desert peach the way other bars use raspberry, and it converts whisky-sour skeptics weekly. The barrel-aged negroni rests ninety days in ex-pinot oak and sells out the day each batch taps.

The zero-proof list gets the same treatment: clarified juices, native botanical distillates, drinks built to stand beside the boozy versions rather than apologise for themselves. The designated driver deserves better than soda water.

The Swan River Old Fashioned took seventeen versions; the syrup was the problem.

The barrel negroni rests ninety days in ex-pinot oak and sells out per batch.

Zero-proof drinks get the same lab treatment, not an afterthought menu.

Cocktails at the Epicurean bar

How to order at our bar

Tell the bartender three words: spirit, mood, intensity. 'Gin, bright, strong' gets you somewhere better than pointing at the menu, and the team treats it as a game.

If you only order one thing, make it the old fashioned. The cloche opens at the table and the smell hits before the taste does. Order it beside the marron and you'll understand the room.

Ines Moreau

Head Pastry Chef

Ines runs the pastry kitchen and co-writes the bar's sweet components. She insists the old fashioned counts as dessert.

Questions

Readers ask

The cocktail masterclass runs quarterly; the team teaches the syrup, the smoke and the ice program. Check the events calendar.
Small bottles sell at the host desk when the bar can spare a batch, which is not often.
The barrel negroni, at roughly double a standard pour's strength. It's sold one per guest, and the bartender will tell you why if you ask.

Order it at the bar

Walk-ins welcome at the bar and lounge. The old fashioned sells fastest on Fridays.